J. Peter Clark

How are popular trends in dining likely to influence food processing operations? Do they really matter? I was prompted to ponder these questions after an exciting meal at one of chef David Chang’s establishments in New York. Some of his restaurants, most called some variation of Momofuku (meaning lucky peach), do not take reservations and are notoriously difficult to patronize. It helped us greatly that we were with Peter Meehan, a New York food author who is writing a cookbook with Chang. Menu items served at Momofuku Ssam, including this steamed bun with Berkshire pork, pickled Kirby cucumbers, hoisin, and scallion, steer clear of traditional approaches to food preparation.

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